Or you might need to get your engine running, or just do the required standard maintenance. Maybe you need the manual to fix the brakes on your Protege, or possibly replace some worn out suspension components. Getting the same information in digital format is so much less expensive and more convenient! In the dark old days of auto repair, you had to buy a traditional service manual in book format which would retail at a higher cost. Old paper repair manuals just don‘t compare! This online repair manual software covers the Mazda Protege and is perfect for any do-it-yourselfer. Now you can get your repair manual online in convenient digital format. If you need a repair manual for your Mazda, you‘ve come to the right place. I got my hands on a Hanes Repair manual and am going to go around testing all of the sensor voltages for sensors that are related to the fuel map.LICENSED OEM SERVICE AND REPAIR MANUAL SOFTWARE FOR THE 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE!.I am not sure how it was still calculating pressures at all, assuming that the PCM/ECU was just calculating it based on other sensor information. This one makes me feel a little stupid, but I found that the vacuum line was actually off of the MAP sensor.I do not have a T to tap into the fuel line while connected to the engine to see what running pressures are, however, I speculate this is not the issue. I also did a fuel pressure test from the pump directly and the pump is pushing about 90psi. Well, I went ahead and put some vice grips on the return line and the engine was still running lean, so it does not appear that is the issue. I have had in the back of my mind that the fuel pressure regulator could be bad and is not letting fuel through.A pretty good indicator that the engine is indeed running very lean. I got out, popped the hood, and the exhaust was glowing bright red. I drove the car about 30 miles today and noticed that the upstream O2 sensor was reading that the engine was running lean, then got a CEL code for O21 sensor fixed.If driving when it hits this point, it bucks for a few seconds then goes to complete crap running. My 2000 Mazda Protege operates great until it gets to exactly 170F (Closed Loop), at which time it idles super rough and has almost no power during acceleration. It's possible the crank position or cam position sensors are failing, I will test those with a multimeter today.If not the ECU I am pretty positive that it is a sensor, as open loop before temp runs 100% fine.Sometimes the data sticks for 60 seconds. When it starts taking 15 seconds, it usually does this consecutively for a while. Sometimes the sensors will update every second, sometimes it takes 15 seconds to update. Not only is it only acting up at temp, which is when the ECU actually does real work, but my OBD2 sensor is seeing updates at random intervals. It is definitely a thought of mine that the ECU could be bad. For a few seconds after hitting temp, it will buck a few times if driving (Power, no power, then power again, etc).Fuel trims are all over the place, I am not sure what they normally look like on this car but they bounce all over the place from -30 to 25.Voltage drops down into the 11's while running, but when hooked to another car while running, voltage is stable > 12v and issue remains.I have a OBD2 logging software that shows the RPM instability as soon as it hits 170F. As I said previously, everything is great until the car goes into closed loop operating mode at 170F.The issue is that once the coolant temperature reaches 170F (op temp) and the ECU goes into closed loop, the engine has a super rough idle, is misfiring, and has a serious loss of power. The car runs and drives beautifully when first started. This is somewhat of a humdinger, as I have been going nuts trying to find the cause.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |